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The first three months of my stay here were highlighted with everything new and different and wonderful. Another three months have passed by now and while many things continue to be new, wonderful and different to me the focus of this report will be more on a new type of experience I have been having here in Namibia. This experience is one of comfort, of knowing, of being known and of feeling like a piece of the puzzle that fits and contributes. I will give some excerpts of situations and activities and feelings that reflect this type of experience that I been having recently. I guess that the first couple of months here is the time you need to have to get used to everything and settle yourself into life and work here. Once I was able to do that to a certain extent I have felt a lot more in control of myself in my new environment, and new experiences and feelings about being here have been opened up to me.
KBMC workshop
Sitting on a bed in a Municipality bungalow in Swakopmund, one of the towns on the coast, at 6:30 a.m. are myself and Dr. Mary Seely, the Executive Director of the Desert Research Foundation of Namibia (DRFN), the organisation that this fellowship volunteers itself to. Dr. Seely is a world-renowned scientist and developmentalist. However, we are both sitting in our pajamas at this early hour working on a presentation I have prepared and will be giving in about 4 hours at Kuiseb Basin Management workshop that we have been organising and are attending. Mary, as we usually call her, has taken the time (an early time, but time none-the-less to work with me and give me some suggestions and hints) and the guidance is much appreciated. With her wealth of knowledge and experience, my presentation will be greatly value added and I am sure to have learnt a ton in that short sitting. As Executive Director of the organisation with many projects and programs, she has many responsibilities and matters that require her
attention. Despite this Mary is always willing to sit and work with a staff member or even a Fellow on their 'small' project, giving it time and her attention.
As I walk into the auditorium where we will be having the activities of the first day of the workshop I see some familiar faces. It is November and I have been in Namibia for just over four months and I can already consider faces to be familiar But it is not just that I see familiar faces, those faces see me and recognise me. The acknowledgement of this common feeling by both sides indicates to me more than just familiarity. I know people and people know me. I am no longer just the new, foreign, funny speaking girl on the scene. I am a regular, I am expected to be there and am one of them. We are now colleagues, working together towards a similar aim and I am a recognised member of the project.
The room fills up and there are about fifty people now in attendance. Andre Botes, ELAK's project manager, opens the workshop and gives his presentation. According to the program I am the next one to deliver my presentation. As I walk towards the front of the room, laptop in hand, I am nervous and in a state of disbelief as well. I gave a presentation at the last stakeholder meeting but the numbers were less and the setting more casual than what I see today. I will be giving a presentation to more than fifty people from Government Ministries, Local Authorities, NGOs, industries, community members, the press and others, as well as pretty much all of my 'bosses'- Mary Seely, Andre Botes, Bertus Kruger and Joh Henschel. I will be giving them a presentation of information concerning the Kuiseb Basin, the basin on which this project surrounds and of which all of these people have been involved if not intimately involved with and for a much longer time than myself. All set up, I take a deep breath, look up and
start. I introduce myself and feel a sense of place there quite quickly. Presentation delivered, I give a sigh of relief that it is over and allow a small smile to break out on my face. I am proud of myself and feel happy about having had that experience. At teatime I was surprised and happy to be congratulated so heartily by many members of the workshop.
SUGE
This acronym stands for Stockholm University Geography Excursion, and this year was taking place in the Kuiseb Basin. As Training Assistant at Gobabeb where the students would be based and my work with the Kuiseb Basin project meant that I was asked to assist with preparations prior to the student arrival and then to help facilitate the course on the ground. As we discussed plans and projects I was able to contribute a number of ideas and was struck by the number of contacts I had within different sectors. I then lead one of the smaller groups to Walvis Bay with another colleague to conduct studies. I was able to lead the group around the town in tours and set them up with appropriate contacts and places for their individual projects. This very comfortable feeling in my environment and the feeling of being a part of something really struck me as we walked through the Municipality buildings going to the offices of people I knew and had worked with and who had agreed to do me favour by talking to the students
and helping them out. The same was true as we visited schools that I had contacts with and I was warmly greeted by teachers who had brought children out to Gobabeb and of course the many students I had come into contact with on programs. What a strange situation of a foreigner leading other foreigners…but at this time I did not feel like a foreigner, this was my place!
Dune trip
One of the activities that was planned for this Swedish group of students was a trip into the dunes over a weekend. As one of the facilitators for the course I was included in the numbers for this trip and boy was I excited! We would be travelling through the dunes in a convoy of vehicles and would need to take all supplies for camping and surviving over the two days and one night. Friday was spent making sure that all of the necessities were collected together ready to be packed into the vehicles the next morning. The morning of the trip we spent packing things into the vehicles and briefing the students on what could be expected, a briefing that I also needed as this would be my first trip that deep into the dunes and my first time to sleep out in the dunes.
As we set out, driving out of the Gobabeb boundaries into the river and into the dunes, our convoy of seven vehicles must have looked pretty impressive but also weird to anyone flying overhead. I was immediately overwhelmed with excitement and a feeling of adventure. By mid afternoon we were all very hot and thirsty and hungry. We stopped at a group of rock outcroppings where we were able to get a little shade. At this site we found some 'bushman circles' which are circular areas enclosed by rocks. We continued our drive with many more spectacular sights ahead. That night we climbed to the top of a nearby dune to watch the sunset, cooked dinner and drank some wine before laying our mattresses out on the bare sand and falling asleep with the stars directly above us. The next morning I awoke before the rest of the camp and headed up the dune to watch the sunrise. With no other disturbing forces I could observe the multitude of tracks in and around the camp which signalled the massive curiosity of the fauna to
our invasive camp.
While the drive on the Saturday was through the dunes, on the Sunday we headed out of the dunes into the riverbed and drove along the river to get back to Gobabeb. This brought new and interesting scenery and formed a wonderful contrast to the day before. We stopped at a point in the river to eat lunch and as we explored we found small pools of water fighting for their existence with little fish in them also struggling to survive. Driving back we stopped to watch a troop of baboons high up in the rock crevices and running along the ledges gawking at us with similar expressions to what were on our faces. The whole trip had been wonderful and by the time we returned I was exhausted from the intense stimulation that my brain had received throughout our journey. As I fell asleep that night I recounted the sights of the weekend and the feelings that I experienced from all of it.
SDP
The Summer Desertification Program brings together sixteen students from different tertiary education institutions in Namibia to carry out a project that has been decided on for the particular year. Co-ordination between the DRFN and some Ministry or Department usually results in a topic of interest to the institutions and reflects a mixture of biophysical and socio-economic methodologies to be applied in the research of the chosen topic. This course has a lecture and class component, a fieldwork component, and a data analysis and write-up component and is closed off with the students presenting the results of the study at what is commonly known as the 'Big Weekend'. This project falls under Em's job description as she is the SDP co-ordinator and logistics support, however I was lucky enough to be included in this amazing project this year. This project took up, for me, most of December and January but represents some of my most memorable moments of this year. The topic for this year was the 'Role of
Indigenous Fruit Trees, Landforms and Farming Practices' and the study areas were two areas in the North Central area of Namibia.
Sitting around under the wide canopy of a marula tree, I looked around myself. I am sitting here with four of the Namibian students, Mary, the farmer we are interviewing and bunch of kids who have followed us to this spot out of curiosity for what we 'outsiders' are at the farm to do. Looking further afield I make a survey of where I am. This farm is like many of the other farms we have been surveying. It is quite large with certain areas that are being cultivated with maize or sorghum, areas that have not been cleared of its bush and small tree cover which is called 'ekove' in this area, the homestead, kraals and separated areas for the livestock. The most prominent livestock present is goats, however cattle are also kept by these farmers but off of the farm in communally owned and used cattle post areas. My group has just finished doing our measurements of all the fruit trees on this farm. This task included estimating the height of each tree, measuring the circumference of the base and canopy radius, and
noting features such as gender, fruiting, damage or protection as well as the land form (soil types) in which the tree is located. Tired and hot we welcomed the shade of this magnificent tree. We have our previously prepared set of questions to ask the farmer about his personal history, farm history, farming practices and particular use and treatment of the fruit trees on the farm. After traversing the farm we also have further questions which have been motivated or inspired by our observations and curiosities. Most farmers have been very hospitable and welcoming to our interviews. In each interview I have learnt more and more about the culture of these people, about the conditions in which people in this area are forced to face and survive within and about the skill of socio-economic interviewing. After four years of anthropology classes I am out in the world using some of what I have learnt and being able to critique other aspects which do not seem to fit or work well when actually in the field faced with
real people. I experienced great rewards and faced major challenges and frustrations as well, all contributing to a great learning opportunity. I learnt so much and enjoyed discovering information, trends and patterns, and lifestyle and behaviour in these areas especially in connection to humans living within and using the environment. My frustrations were found in working through the necessary translation between Oshiwambo, the commonly spoken language of the area, and English. This exercise continuously tested and eventually taught me patience and technique. It was hard at times to confront the hardships and problems experienced by many of these people. Factors of increasing population, over exhaustion of the land, and aridity have contributed to ever rising levels of difficulty in this farming culture and further poverty.
A poignant memory lodged in my mind for years to come will be the experience that my small group had one day while we were conducting our study of a farm. During the interview with the farmer we asked him why he had cut down so many of his male trees. The usual answer that we had been receiving followed, as he stated that they were useless as they produced no fruit while taking up room in his field areas. Turning to Dr. Seely he asked, through our translator if she had any ideas of what to do with these useless male trees. Mary asked the translator to ask the farmer if he knew about pollination and its importance. The necessary translation took many more words than in English and could not even be completed as the farmer erupted in laughter and walked away from the tree shaking his head in disbelief. The farmer, we found out from the translator, had found it ridiculous what had been explained to him and thought we were all crazy for believing it and trying to get him to believe as well. Some things I suppose
just cannot transcend cultures.
There are many more experiences I could describe in this report but it would make it far too long. This program was absolutely incredible in allowing me to travel into areas that I never would have been able to before and to talk to people and see life there not as a tourist. The students were very fun to be with and I learnt a lot working with them and was able to use many skills I had gained in college and before.
The 'Big Weekend' was soon a couple of weeks away, then a week, then a few days and then finally it was upon us. Lots of hard work, preparations, sleepless nights and hoards of guests arriving have all happened and now we are sitting in the Amabilis Hall. An introduction to the SDP is made and the program and soon the students are streaming out and beginning their performance. They are presenting their results through song and stage and it promises to be a treat. Sitting in the audience watching the students I feel a little like a proud mother watching these students who have come so far in learning and experience and I was lucky enough to share it with them, teach them some stuff, and learn a lot myself. The play is quite funny but at moments laughter can only be heard coming from myself, Em, Olavi and Mary in the audience as certain things could only be understood by 'insiders'. After the performance has been completed and the applause has died down it is time for the award presentation to be made by the
Swedish Charge d'Affairs, the Director of the Directorate of Forestry and the Chairman of the Board of Trustees. I was so caught up in clapping so loudly for the students that I was caught by surprise as I heard my name being called out. It was always the feeling that while being a driver and facilitator of this course that I was also involved in the course. The work was always done by all of us- from the students, to us staff to Mary and Bill- out there measuring trees and asking questions. As I walked forward to receive my certificate I was once again struck with this feeling I have been trying to describe throughout this report of being a true part of something here.
Nature that nurtures
When we drive from Gobabeb to Windhoek the route most often taken is through the Gamsberg Mountain pass. The Gamsberg Mountain itself is a tabletop mountain and driving through its range offers a nervous yet thrilling drive. On top of the pass the view is spectacular. The drive closer to Gobabeb and that closer to Windhoek offers amazing aspects as well. By now I have done this drive a number of times, sometimes driving myself and being forced to concentrate on the unlevelled, gravel road, with its rises and the steep winding narrow roads that are offered by the pass. Other times I am allowed to be a spectator and allow myself to be mesmerised by the geologic magnificence that it laid out before me, the wonder of the wildlife that is often seen during the drive and the major contrasts that this area has which adds to what Namibia boasts as its major value. Driving from Gobabeb to Windhoek always offers a treat of some nature. Sometimes the treat is getting to practice your tyre changing skills while other
times it is being able to be witness to amazing presentations by nature. A couple of these drives and their experiences stick out for me and I wanted to share them.
After the course with the Swedish students was over I along with other colleagues Patrik and Arnoldt were responsible for driving the group back to Windhoek. This was in late November which is just at the start of the rainy season, however being in the desert has done a lot to dampen my expectations of rain. As we approached the Gamsberg pass I could sense a change in the climatic atmosphere and the sky changed its colours, tones and lighting. By the time we reached the top of the pass it was evident what was responsible for these interruptions in the usual sunny, blue sky, dry conditions. Standing on the top of the pass you feel like you are on top of the world as you look across the landscape which falls in waves below you in some parts where the forces of land movement and erosion have changed the shape of the land drastically. In other directions the land rises steeply in the form of mountains, while in other areas still the land lays flat, blanketed with vegetation. All of these together create a very
dramatic effect. Looking in the distance amongst these different forms of the land the thick grey clouds with rain exuding out of them like a sheet were an incredible sight. Pouring out over the normally parched landscape, the environment looked relieved and welcoming of this life-preserving event. The colours usually so orange, yellow and red, now were modified by the clouds and rain and shone out in shades of pink, purple, blue and grey. This was a beautiful sight and was moving closer. The cool breeze formed by this newly added moisture in the air and the dark clouds covering the sky gave an unusual atmosphere, one which I did not recognise or relate to. But as I felt it coming closer I urged us to move on before getting too entrenched in it which would make the drive even harder. But as we drove on I was still filled with the majesty of the event I had just witnessed. Further along the drive I got the feeling that we had entered into a nature video. Alongside us driving, a herd of zebra was running wild
and free through the surrounding environment. As we drove along this herd continued its powerful, yet graceful movements, navigating their way across the undulating landscape and the patchy vegetation. It was hard to concentrate on driving as one easily became mesmerised by this sight. The whole drive served to remind me of the utter beauty and magnificence of nature.
During the same drive up with the SDP students a couple of months later, we encountered once again rain. Our reminder this time was more of the strength of this event than its beauty as such. The powerful downpour of rain severed the windscreen wiper on my side making it even more impossible to see where I was driving. To make matters worst the tributaries and small streams that cross the road in multiple places had responded very well to the new influx of water and were flowing rapidly like small rivers carrying with them an assorted bunch of natural debris. Driving the combi (small minibus) I was nervous to try to cross one of these but the alternative was a long drive back and then around the coast, and this did not seem an option to me as we were almost half-way to Windhoek. Instead I got out in the rain and examined the stream and decided to risk it. Firmly in first gear with my engine revved I hit the gas and hoped for the best. My efforts were supported by a busload of students chanting and screaming
at the excitement of all of this. This process occurred another 6 times or so each time testing my nerves as the combi jumped around in the river being moved by the strength of the flowing water but luckily resulting in success as we reached the dry bank on the other side safely. The entire environment was so different to what I was used to and I gained new perspective and respect for this area and the relationship between the natural features and forces.
Craziness
Screams emerged from every office and work space almost in concert with each other, differing in pitches, lengths or decibels. What could it be you might be asking as you read this? Well of course it is the usual; it is the usual event that is able to conjure up such a strong reaction stationwide. No it is neither a snake nor a scorpion, these things we can deal with readily and are a part of the natural world so are much more easily accepted.
It is the greatest monster of all-THE GENERATOR!!
The generator has cut out, severing us from our power supply. Most people have lost some if not alot of the work they have been slaving over this morning. An unusual occurrence you might presume or hope? but no, this is the third time in a row it has happened this week. A good excuse to do no work you might excitedly think, but no, this just means extra work to start from scratch again and try to recover hours of work since the deadlines you have do not care about generator failures. If you thought that it was bad in college when you lost the occasional document ...at least you mostly only had yourself to blame. Here your work place works against your productivity in ways that you have no control over. Not much I suppose can be done about it. We live out in the middle of the desert, far away from any major energy grid system and rely on being powered by two very old generators. Let me tell you actually how old these things are. They have been aged at over thirty years old and according to our new energy
project people they are some of THE OLDEST of their kind in the country. The worst of this situation is that your rage is only increased by the fact that we cannot even make a cup of coffee to sit down and wait with as we use an electric kettle for boiling our water. As we all sit around grumbling and consoling one another, a bond is formed amongst us all. Usually it is not too long before we are once again greeted by the accustomed humming of the generator once again. Sometimes this is the end of the worries for the day, whereas on other days when the generator is in a bad mood or hasn't been given the proper attention it feels it deserves it takes us on a roller coaster ride - computers on, computers off, computers off, computers on! It is especially at these times when I just sit on the stairs and look out into the environment that is surrounding us. Once my frustration has worn off somewhat, I resolve myself by thinking how incredible it is that we have such a level of technology in the middle of the
desert. I realise that as much as we accomplish, as far as we go and as much as we test nature, we must respect it for its power and brilliance that will never be completely overcome by humans. The new energy project will seek to harness the natural energy of the environment through solar and wind-generated power to serve as the energy source for Gobabeb. The times ahead will be experimental but exciting as Gobabeb moves towards renewable energy.
Lessons Learnt
There is one thing that I have learned while being here on this fellowship which I suppose one may learn in any first job, or just in the real world. What is quite different from school and perhaps Grinnell in particular is that you cannot count on positive reinforcement, pats on the back, recognition for self-perceived hard or good work, or any feedback. This is not something that can be so easily gained as we have been used to with grades, reports, professor praise or peer recognition. In this setting it has taken a lot longer to get to the stage where I feel like I am receiving this but the reward and value are at much higher stakes. For me I have had to be positive for myself and seek reward in the people and environment which our work is motivated by and for which it is being done. My major reward has been to be a part of some of the amazing places, people and projects that I have been lucky enough to become involved with and interacted with.
Fame and Fortune
You cannot really count on obtaining either of these two things during this Grinnell corps fellowship. The fortune will definitely not be in terms of money, I can assure you but that is fine. You, however, will receive in many respects 'good fortune': good fortune in where you will live, whom you will meet, what you will get to do and where you get to go. Your gains will be great!
Fame on the other hand is always relative. My closest place to fame and one form of recognition that I have gained has been two newspaper articles in which I was included. The first appeared in a small newspaper that is distributed mostly on the coast called the Namib times. A teacher who had brought her Grade Seven class to Gobabeb for a weekend, for one of the environmental education programs I both design and run, had written about the visit. In this article she described the class' great learning experience as well as enjoyable time and included a picture of me with some of the students. Some people did mention that it was hard to tell me apart from the 10-11 year old students with whom I am standing… ha ha ha!
The second article was in the national newspaper called the Namibian and focused on the Kuiseb Basin Management workshop that I have earlier described. This article included a small paragraph about my presentation on the profile I was working on.
You will notice that most of my writing is positive about being here and to tell the truth that is the overriding feeling I have. So why do I love Gobabeb? My work? being here? This is not easy and I am not sure if I can describe this and do it complete justice. How do I know that I feel this way? By the incredible excitement I felt after being away for a while with SDP about going back and how happy I felt when I arrived back there was a strong indication to me.
So whether it be good experiences or frustrating ones as I have tried to cover the range, these all make up my life out here. I say my life and not just my year because of what I tried to describe in my opening paragraph. This place, my work, the people and the situations are close to me and I feel a part of them.
Sun begins slow descent
Colours dance throughout the sky
How quickly it all ends
Nadia Manning
August 3rd 2002
Namib Desert
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