Nadia Manning's Reports

Arrival

After three days of travel for Em and I to get to Namibia, we were finally there greeted by the familiar faces of Shannon and Emily. Our first few days were a whirlwind of introductions to people, work spaces, eating, shopping and other aspects of the city of Windhoek. But this was not our final destination and while we were in Namibia and had a great time in the main city our journey had to continue. We began the drive to Gobabeb after stocking up on food and other necessary items and now it seemed that only four and half hours stood between us and our final destination. Leaving the city our drive took us through the beautiful Gamsberg mountain pass with its narrow winding, gravel road which exposed us to the amazing geological formations of the highland area in which Windhoek is nestled. While still feeling the effects of jet lag, the striking beauty of the surroundings we were driving through as well as the highly peaked emotions and expectations running through me kept me wide awake. We had left the city a little later than we had hoped which meant that large part of our drive and the arrival into Gobabeb would have been in the dark. As chance, fate or whatever force you care to attribute it to would have it, one of our back tyres exploded just at the bottom of the mountain pass . As we raced against the setting of the sun to change our tyre, we chuckled over this first adventure. To cut a long story short we ended up staying at a nearby farm due to a lady who luckily was driving down the road some time later. This unplanned trip to the farm turned out to be fruitful in seeing more of the area and making what would turn out to be a good friend out here.

Setting off bright and early the next morning our journey continued in the brilliant sunshine. The feeling of anxiousness returned as we made our way closer to Gobabeb. Now out of the mountain area we drove along miles of flat gravel plains area allowing us to see for miles…but no sight of Gobabeb yet. After hours of flat gravel plains which met only with the expanse of blue sky in the distance we could finally see in the distance the dunes looming ahead. The big shaped mounds of red sand increasing in number as we got closer and closer into view heralded our arrival into the desert. The moment, however, when that first glimpse of Gobabeb came via the huge white water structure towering high above the horizon line sticking out against the red dunes I was struck by a huge upwelling of emotions.

Closer still I could make out the handful of strangely shaped buildings scattered over the area. Driving through the gates of the station and parking in front of the main buildings-we had arrived. I was immediately mesmerised by the amazing environment before me . Gobabeb is situated at the confluence of three major ecosystems and the striking contrast between the dunes, the ephemeral river bed lined with trees and the flat extending gravel plains is awe striking. As I attempted to take in everything around me I was also forced to deal with reality as it began to sink in, the reality that this is where I would be living for the next year…in the middle of the desert away from every- and anything( or at least I thought so at the time). The combination of all of the many thoughts, feelings and ideas racing through my being rendered me almost mute (which if you know me is very hard to do) except for the sporadic gasps of 'wow!'… 'oh shit!' …but mostly 'wow!!". Embracing Em I felt most of my fear and anxiety slip away in the face of tremendous excitement. I knew from this moment that my life would be very different but that it would also be amazing.

Gobabeb life…

Buzz buzz… I roll over and shut off my alarm clock and look at what time it is-six o'clock in the morning. I tiredly and somewhat reluctantly climb out of my warm bed and quickly dress as I can hear them awake outside already. With plenty of layers to protect me from the cold (yes it can be bloody freezing in the desert) but still wearing my sandals I make my way down to the river (ephemeral that is…as it has no surface water in it right now). All ready to go, eager for adventure these open vessels are willing to absorb whatever knowledge is passed their way. Somewhat sleepy-eyed I find myself face to face with the fifty three 12-13 year olds that are visiting for the weekend for whom I am running an environmental education program. The equation therefore is:

1 sleepy Gobabeb trainer + 53 12-13 year olds x trekk to the top of station dune = tons of fun

Our excursion to the top of the dune to watch the sun rise was a great one. If anyone would have looked out onto that dune that morning they would have been surprised/confused/shocked at the sight of tons of bodies littering the once pristine dune. For many of these kids it was the first time that they have seen sand dunes let alone been let loose to run around and roll around on them. The whole weekend had been a lot of work for me in terms of organising and carrying out the program but was also very rewarding. The extreme interest and inquisitiveness about the environment and eagerness to learn about such unique organisms and processes was amazing. The feeling that we were actually able to share something with these kids and the hope that they not only learn but care about what they were learning were fulfilled.

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Pant legs rolled up, we attempt to keep up conversation despite quickly becoming out of breath from the ascent up the dune. The Ambassador Arba Diallo, the head of the United Nations Convention to Combat Desertification and I are walking together to the top of station dune along with others from the visit of UNCCD members to Gobabeb for the weekend. Second to Kofi Annan in the UN, the Ambassador would usually be so surrounded by people, politics and protocol that it would be impossible to ever really converse with him on a one-to-one basis. But out here at Gobabeb and especially as we are climbing around on the dunes, most of that is lost. Instead we chat as much as two people can while fighting the sand's gravity effect on the slip face, sharing the same aim to get to the top to observe nature's beautiful event of the setting of the sun over the dunes. Sitting on the top of dune we have some drinks, potato chips and biltong (not me) and laugh about previous conversations in which I tried to explain where I was from and he told me that he was going to be in Barbados the next week (of course the head of UNCCD would know where Barbados was…how silly!) and that he was happy that he got to sit next to me at dinner as I was a vegetarian and it meant he could have my share of meat also, but that he would never trust a vegetarian to carry his luggage after I offered to be his personal luggage carrier wherever he went. So as the sun set, we all marveled at the sight… and I secretly marveled at the great opportunities that exist here.

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As the airplanes start their usual flights over the desert (including Gobabeb) at about 3 o' clock I am sitting out on a big rock reading and writing and enjoying the sunshine. I look up and wonder what their tourist passengers think as they fly over the seemingly endless miles of desert dunes and then suddenly are greeted by the sight of a small enclosure of white washed buildings with people running around, sitting in the sun, leading school groups or doing investigations out in the field. I wonder what they think of this settlement out here in the middle of the desert and what its people are doing out here and how they survive. However, as I lower my eyes I think of how strange this place must look but then as my eyes return and I see this place from ground level my moments of wonder escape me. I had those same thoughts but now I know what we are, I know what we do and the strangeness is no longer there…this is my home and place where so much interesting and important work takes place.

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Dinner has ended, speeches have been made, and the last minute departure announcements for the next day have been given. The music begins to play as the tables are pushed back and now we are ready to really enjoy the final night of the Desertification conference workshop held over the past week here. This workshop is part of a three year process looking at issues of desertification and especially alternative ways to combat it, community action and the linking of common sense and scientific knowledge. Bringing communities together from different parts of Namibia, South Africa and Zambia the workshop has focused on giving vital training skills and finding ways for communities to go forward. I have spent the whole week with the workshop being involved in the activities, recording all the proceedings, and working with the smaller community groups on project planning and proposal writing. It has been a long, tiring and at times hard week but it has been productive. Now it is time to unwind and interact as people.

As familiar Namibian tunes blare out from the stereo I am welled up with feelings at what I see before me. Dancing together are people from so many different countries and backgrounds and all differences are pushed aside. Young or old, it doesn't matter as some of the memes (older ladies) show us how it is done. What a great thing to be able to bring people together like this.

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Waking one morning expecting the usual sight of the dunes form my bedroom window I can see nothing. Wiping my eyes I try again. Our world has been transformed and I can see nothing beyond a few metres. The station has disappeared, there are no other buildings, the dunes have vanished and no trees can be seen. I wonder if I am still in a dream and only a light shining in the beyond from the water tower assures me that I am still at Gobabeb. This is my first fog event. It had rolled in during the night from the coast and has settled so thickly as to inhibit our view. Running outside I am greeted by the cold, tingly feeling of this matter which surrounds everything. As the sun begins to rise the fog starts to dissipate, moving quickly over the dunes revealing those aspects which are usually part of the landscape. Laying like a blanket over the land only the red peaks can be made out in the distance. Droplets of water from the condensing fog form on every surface and the place comes alive with the arrival of this important source of water. It is truly an amazing event to witness and reveals some of the secrets of survival in this harsh environment.

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These are not usual days at Gobabeb but then again there really isn't a usual day here.

Each morning the sun rises in a different way, shedding its light differently, creating a new array of colours over the dunes, river and gravel plains. With each sunrise there will be new people, new activities, new challenges, new accomplishments, new sights, sounds and smells, and even a new me. With each day I learn more about this place, the environment, the organisms that exist here, the people at the station and in the neighbouring communities, this organisation and its work and more about myself. People often ask how we are able to live out here and comment that they themselves would not be able to. I can understand this comment from the outsiders perspective but I am an insider. We are isolated in the middle of the desert and lack certain conveniences and are far away from commercial/social centres and there are only a few of us- all of these factors are true. But it can be so great that way. I have re-ordered my life out here. I spend free time reading, exploring the area, writing ,and thinking. And we have alot of fun too…even if our power goes out at 11:30 p.m we just have to be creative about what we do. What these excerpts attempt to show is the diversity of life out here. Like the numerous organisms that exist out here we too have to adapt to the conditions present. You need to be flexible and make use of what is available.

We are a small, ever-changing community out here which can bring both benefits and challenges. While we face the situation of working and living all together, this also helps to make us close. The people here are so varied in their backgrounds and what they do here that it makes it very interesting to interact amongst this diversity. Many of the people here are becoming dear friends already.

Work

"Hi my name is Nadia Manning and I am the Training and Outreach Support Assistant here at Gobabeb".

This statement at first seemed like a bunch of words strung together next to my name but now is something that I believe and feel is true. After the first few months of finding my way around and settling into the station and its activities I feel like I fit into the complex puzzle here and contribute to its functioning. There is often the question of whether this is service oriented as it is not as clear cut as other positions but I have felt on many occasions that whether directly or indirectly I have contributed to both local as well as greater causes or issues.

Environmental Education/Training

My work with school groups and students of all levels on arid ecology, conservation and other environmental issues is one area in which I feel like I am doing service. Providing information to the students is great but what really distinguishes our programs here is the chance to experience first hand the environment out here. Even if none of the students can remember a single fact after visiting I believe that the experience of being out in the ecosystems imbues them with a new and important perspective of this unique environment.

Community Outreach

My work with communities along the Kuiseb River as well as from other parts of Namibia and Southern Africa allows me direct contact with people and the work being done to help them with specific issues. I love the chance to share ideas with people directly and to gain knowledge from them as well. I love the fact that work is done to combine issues of the environment with issues of people as they really are inseparable in this developing world.

My work, I realise however is not only a service to the organisation or others but is definitely a service to me. While my dedication is to others, and not wishing to sound selfish, I must acknowledge the value of this experience to myself. I have learned so much from all aspects of my life here as well as the people I work with and for and continue to be enriched by my experiences and the world in which I live right now.

Work and life is not always a bed of roses as they say. There are late nights, weekend work, deadlines and pressure. Some of the challenges and my frustrations come from this being my first job which I have already found to be so different from school life. Some come from working in an NGO setting and others come form this particular organisation. However, these all bring rewards as well and the opportunities that arise and the interesting projects and work being done in this organisation often make up for the tough stuff. I have this amazing feeling from being part of something greater, something that is attempting to and doing so much on vital issues in this country and beyond.

So this is a little glimpse into my life out here in the middle of the desert at the Gobabeb Training and Research Centre. Life operates on a different scale for me right now but I am content for now as being…

"… just a girl in the desert!"

On suggestion by David Campbell I have been writing haiku as one form of expression of what I see, feel and experience out here and so I will share a few of these.

Sunset surprise
Clouds circle in panic
sun sets swiftly behind dune
explosion of colour

Fog force
Fog rolls in over dune
black night becomes starless
all life is waiting

Buried history
Sand dunes rising high
twisting shapes of identity
stories of time lay buried

They be giants…
Mighty giants lie
their form in sand revealed
tiny ants walk fearless